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Sunday, September 29, 2013 @ 1:17 PM PERMALINK

I promised I would be back with something other than shopping and I'm here to deliver.

I had hoped to make a trip down to Ayutthaya this time round but there just seemed to be so much to do and not enough days. So instead, we settled for a little temple exploring in what is known as Old Bangkok.

A couple of years ago, in order to experience Bangkok beyond shopping at Pratunam, Jasmine and I stayed a night in a lovely flashpackers hostel called Niras Bankoc Cultural Hostel. Niras is walking distance from many locations tourists set out to see and is also quite near to the infamous Khao San Road. 

It was very refreshing to be out on the street and to see that stalls weren't set up to sell clothes or souvenirs. Instead, most of the shops in the area seemed to be involved in the making and sale of religious paraphernalia. When you peered into shops, you would see people tirelessly gold-leafing statues or crafting temple bells.

Staying in this area was a refreshing experience and is something I would encourage people on return trips to Bangkok to do. 

There are many temples and historical monuments in the Old City. Many tourists hit them all up in a day but I've had the privilege to visit a no more than a couple each time. I find that this allows me to soak up the history and beauty of each temple a little more.

On this trip, we had decided to visit Wat Saket and Loha Praset (which is located on the grounds of Wat Ratchadaran)

It is easy enough to get a taxi from the Pratunam area to any of the temples but we decided to take the Khlong Saen Saep water taxi. The water taxi only runs a West and East line so it is really easy to navigate. To get to Wat Saket, you'll be looking to get off at Panfa Leelard.







Boat hands also double up as ticket masters. Once everyone is seated and often while the boat is in motion, the boat hand reaches in from the outside of the boat to collect money and issue tickets. All this is done whilst perching precariously on the side of the moving water taxi with only a rope for support.



Houses line both sides of the river and traveling by water ferry really opens your eyes up to the different ways Bangkokians live.





Once you get off at Panfa Leelard, you'll be able to see Wat Saket standing grandly against the skyline.
Just follow the signs and you'll be able to find the temple easily. It is an easy 5-10 minute walk.





There are supposed to be about 300 steps to the top and it is a bit of a climb up to the golden chedi but the view you are rewarded with is pretty spectacular. The walk up is also very serene and there are also little things like statues in grottos and temples bells to see along the way up.











Wat Saket is an important part of Thai history and been around since the 1300s. The golden chedi that everyone associates with Wat Saket actually houses buddha relics and this makes the chedi a significant place of reverence for many buddhists. Wat Saket also functions as a monastery and is home to several high ranking Buddhist monks.





All that foliage is just vines and vines of morning glory plants. I've never seen so many at one time. Thin metal wire frames are also laid down to encourage them to continue growing.



Temple buildings are still maintained by hand and workers in charge of the arduous task of sticking on mirrored pieces that have been broken or have fallen off. I always find it incredibly amazing to think of how much effort goes into these buildings of worship.



After our trip to Wat Saket, our next stop was Loha Prasat in Wat Ratchanadda. Wat Ratchanadda is just a short walk from Wat Saket.



The striking Loha Prasat is known for its fully metal roof that features 37 spires, each spire represents one of the 37 virtues to enlightenment.  To date, only three buildings have been built in this manner and Loha Prasat is the only one still standing.

With its stark grey and red colouring, Loha Prasat cuts what some may describe as a stern and imposing figure as compared to other Buddhist buildings that relish the use of warm greens, blues and gold colours.

Once in the building though, you'll realise that stark colours and amazing workmanship aside, this building is a sanctuary for mental reflection and peace.






When you first enter, there is an exhibition that introduces you to the history and construction of the building.







There is a narrow spiral staircase that you can use to explore the upper levels. On the upper levels, you'll find statues of Buddha housed in little chambers. Walls of the levels are also lined with panels
explaining different styles of meditation and various Buddhist teachings.









Tourists seem to prefer to visit temples with many grand mirrored and gold-leafed structures, this leaves Wat Ratchanadda without a large crowd and allows it to maintain a very peaceful and tranquil atmosphere. While I was walking around the halls of Loha Prasat, it was so easy to forget about the hectic environment I am constantly exposed to.

Apart from Loha Prasat, there is also an amulet market located on the grounds of Wat Ratchanadda. We didn't get to explore it this time but if any one else has, do let me know how it is. It sounds like it would be a great experience.







We are bushed after all that walking and the weather was threatening to take a turn for the worst so we shelved our initial plans to visit Chinatown, hopped back on the water taxi and returned to the Siam area. More about that in my next and final post about Bangkok.


Notes for travelers: 

Navigating the Khlong Saen Saep Boat Service

- If you happen to be staying in the same area as we were, from the front of Palladium Mall, locate this marker and walk against the flow of traffic. Pratunum Pier is a short walk from there.



- When it comes to catching the water taxi, you only need to ensure you are on the right side. As mentioned earlier, the service only goes in two directions so all you'll have to do is ask if the boat is going towards Panfa Leelard.

- Tickets are only issued once you are seated so remember which stop you are getting off and let the boat hand know. The boat hand will then collect the money from you and issue you a paper ticket.

Ticket in the picture below is for our trip from Panfa Leelard to Sapan Hua Chang so you'd be better off ignoring the price. I think it cost us about 12 baht to go from Pratunam to Panfa Leelard.

In any case, getting a taxi would cost you at least 10 times more so you'd definitely save money taking the water ferry. Savings aside, I personally think the water ferry is a great way to travel. It is quick and the seats aren't uncomfortable. Also, you get a taste of how many of the locals get around Bangkok.



- You should also note that the river is not the cleanest around and that the blue construction tarp you may have sighted in some of the photos is used to help passengers avoid getting splashed by khlong water when the boat is moving.

The tarp is operated by a pulley system so passengers in at least 3 rows have to pull it up together in order for it to work well.

- Please bear in mind that the water ferry is also used by locals as a mode of transport so while you may be tempted to keep the tarp down to snap photos, do pay attention to the people around you.

- Panfa Leelard is the end of the line so you don't have to worry about missing the stop. In any case, each water taxi stop has a sign with the name of the stop on it so you'll be able to find out quite easily if you should be getting off.

- The trip from Pratunam to Panfa Leelard took about 15-20 minutes, not including the waiting time for the water taxis to arrive. I'm not sure what the frequency of the boats are like but it never felt like we had to wait for very long.

- If you want to get to the Siam area by water ferry, get off at Sapan Hua Chang

Visiting Wat Saket and Wat Ratchanadda

Wat Saket: There is a ticketing booth at the base of the steps up to the chedi and you'll have to buy an entrance ticket for either 20 or 30 baht. There is another donation box at the front of the chedi but it is up to you to give as you see fit

- Wat Ratchanadda: There is no one manning a ticketing booth at Wat Ratchanadda but there is a contribution box when you enter Loha Prasat for the conservation of the temple buildings.

There is more to both Wat Saket and Wat Ratchanadda then what we saw. Both temple complexes are home to buildings of historical and cultural significance. As mentioned earlier, Wat Ratchanadda also hosts an amulet market on its grounds. We didn't get to explore all these places but please do if you are there and you have the time to spare. 

Labels: bangkok, loha prasat, temple visiting, Thailand, travel, wat saket

0 comments | Leave a comment Monday, September 16, 2013 @ 10:55 PM PERMALINK





Chatuchak Weekend Market ( also commonly spelt at Jatujak and abbreviated as JJ) is an institution in its own right.

It is MASSIVE. Wikipedia says covers 35 acres and is home to 15,000 stalls and I believe that.

The atmosphere at Chatuchak is electrifying. At JJ, tourists and Bangkokians browse stalls shoulder to shoulder, it isn't just another tourist trap where stalls exist only for tourists. Between shopping and browsing, it is the best place to observe the easy-going and friendly demeanor of the Thais.

I'm sure you have already heard about how JJ sells almost everything. People aren't exaggerating; Vintage collectables, second hand clothes, scrap booking materials, aromatherapy items, pets, homeware, furniture, plants, electronics and toys are just some of the things you can purchase at JJ.

On the wearables front, you'd be wrong to assume that because it is called a market, it only sells the usual run of the mill products with shoddy workmanship. It doesn't matter if you are looking to buy trendy clothes or looking to take a peek into Bangkok's independent designer scene, everything can all be found at JJ market.

Many people suggest getting to JJ as early as possible to avoid the heat that comes with the afternoon sun. We got there at 11 or so when the market was in full swing and it was fine. Personally, I don't think there is a point dragging yourself up early if you aren't a morning person. It is just easier to expect a hot and sticky day, bring lots of water and just roll with it.



There is supposed to be a system to the beautiful chaos that is Chatuchuk. Sections are numbered and labeled to tell you what is being sold there. If you can get a hold of one of the area maps, you will be able to find out which sections you'd rather skip or skip to, provided you can locate the section numbers before you enter the section itself. Bear in mind that these are loose definitions and sometimes the best way to get a sense of the area is actually to get in there and take a look.



There are many entrances you can enter the market by. We had ducked into a side entrance that led us into a clothes section that seemed to sell mostly be second hand items/vintage (term used loosely) items.
There are stalls selling racks and racks of clothes for 100 Baht (less than $5). If you are into thrifting, it is like being in a HUGE thrift store chockful of marvelous items waiting to be found.

If second-hand/vintage clothing isn't your thing, you'll be better off entering by the main entrance (pictured at the top of this post). The areas selling the usual fashionable clothing are located closer to that area. Clothes here are cheap too, I bought 3 pairs of shorts at 100 baht each.

With some exploring you'll also be able to come across stalls selling self designed accessories and carefully curated clothes.







This is the FORTH time I've been to Chatuchak and I've actually still haven't come across that famed Pets Section.  Although, this time round we did come across a tiny pets section that sold all these adorable pet clothes. One step closer I guess, maybe during my next trip there then.





After hours of walking and shopping, we decided that we really ought to take a break to fill our stomaches.

The food section is also humongous. Thais who frequent JJ know which are the best food stalls and where to find them. We didn't, but as luck would have it, we chanced upon this chicken noodle stall with available seats.  The stall only sells one dish - chicken noodles; And with good reason - the noodles were phenomenal. 





I know this is a very badly taken photograph but if you happen to come across this stall, HAVE A BOWL OF NOODLES, you won't regret it.



Stomaches filled and feet rested, we carried on shopping until about 6pm.

We actually had quite a lucky day. The weather wasn't scorching hot and a short drizzle helped cool down the area during what would have been the hottest part of the day.

After a second break, we decided we were done for the day and we took the BTS down to Siam.





We ended up visiting the Magnam pop up store. It was its last day and EVERYTHING was sold out. So we ended up having a sprite, a cup of tea and a cocktail. Turns out, it was its last day in Bangkok because it was headed to Singapore..Pfft





We also stopped at Naraya to buy all the items friends and family requested.

To be honest, the Siam area definitely needs more than the 3 hours we allocated to it. While I'm not particularly a fan of the big expensive malls like Siam Discovery and Siam Centre, Siam Square is pretty fun to explore and I've still to visit Scala Cinema - although I saw it from the outside this time.

We had wanted to try and locate Somtam Nua but with only the street address, we didn't have any idea how to go about finding it.

In the end, we made the decision to jump into a tuk-tuk and head back to our hotel.



The streets in front of the hotel is always bustling and turns into a food market at night. While Abby rested her feet, Ale and I went downstairs and indulged in a rapid fire food buying frenzy.







Here's my Chatuchak haul. I suppose I went a little crazy with the bottoms.



We'd set out to cram all our shopping into two days so the next day we were off to Platinum Mall.

Rising prices aside, I still love shopping at Platinum Mall. A close second would have to be Pratunam clothes market although I didn't get to explore that much this time round.

I had worried that the rest would get tired of shopping so had only allocated the afternoon to shopping and had planned to head to Asiatique for dinner. As it turns out, all three of us have a little shopoholic in us and we ended up staying the entire day at Platinum instead.

I'd like to show you more photos but I was too busy shopping. Ale was way more attentive to her camera so you'll probably be better off looking for photos of our Platinum shopping day at her blog

I can only provide you with 4 photos. All my shopping from Platinum, beef noodles from Platinum's food court (a must eat each time I visit), a Thai Tea Latte from Black Canyon and my part of my dinner, pork flavoured cup noodles and pork balls.









Even though we spent two solid days shopping, Bangkok promises so much more and I'll be back with another update that is less shopping-centric.

Til next time kittens!

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- With Chatuchak, the trick is all in your mindset. It will get hot, sticky and crowded and you shouldn't go there expecting anything less than that. Bring along water or be prepared to buy numerous bottles, take frequent breaks (there are many cafes and stalls around for that very reason) and take along a healthy sense of adventure.

 - As it is with most crowded places, keep an eye on your belongings. Chatuchak has claimed a phone from me (I had left it in a shop after paying for something) and Jasmine's Blackberry fell victim to pickpockets the last time we were there.

- You can take a cab to Chatuchak but if you are located near a BTS, just take the train. You'll save money but more importantly (I feel) won't get stuck in patience trying traffic jams. Trust me, if you aren't used to the heat or the crowd, you'll be needing that patience later on in the day.

If you are wary about public transport in Bangkok, don't be. This is what a BTS station looks like. Clean, fast and affordable, what else could you ask for?



If you come from the same neck of the woods as me, it is almost exactly the same as our MRT system.
You'll be looking to get off at Mo Chit Station. Just follow the crowd and you'll find Chatuchuk with no problem at all.

The tokens used are a little different. For the orange ones, just tap them on the scanners at the barriers to get the gates open. As for the card, if you are as old as me, they work exactly the same way ours used to. Put them into the slots at the barriers and the gantry will open up. Easy peasy




































- I've had problems getting a taxi to bring me out of JJ because of the traffic. A win-win situation I've found is to do what we did and take the BTS down to Siam station. At Siam, you can enjoy the air conditioned comfort of the malls and even get a spot of dinner there. If you aren't too bushed, there is also more shopping to be done at Siam Square

- Siam Square sounds like it may be a self contained building but it isn't. It's a name given collectively to a series of buildings and roads so do bear in mind that if you are looking for a specific place, you'd either have to ask many people for directions or have them on hand. Or well, try and use Google Maps.

- Always tell the tuk-tuk driver where you are going and agree on a price before getting in. Once inside, hold on for dear life. Tuk-tuk drivers are known to regard traffic rules as mere suggestions. This, while nerve wrecking for some does make it so much faster for them to get you to your destination.

Labels: bangkok, chatuchak, jj market, Platinum mall, Thailand, travel

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